Tuning:  Step by Step

by Chad Magnussen

   There has been a few people ask me how to make their bow shoot better. For the most part it is simple and takes very little time to properly set up and tune your equipment. Someone besides yourself can properly set up your bow, but only YOU can properly tune it!  Bow tuning machines can give you some good information, but in my opinion all they do is help you set it up.  Tuning is up to you, the machine will not be shooting the bow for you!

   Below is a step by step process that I use to get my bow to shoot at its best (I said the bow….I still have plenty of issues!). I am sure others have a different process that works well for them, but this process has been working for me.

Step 1:  Visual inspection and measurements.

   The first thing you should do is measure your bow to see if it is within specifications.  I like to measure the axel to axel and brace height.  Remember, the factory specifications are only a guide, but if you are out of specifications by more than an inch on axel to axel or ½ an inch on brace you may want to make some changes. If something seems out of specifications, remove your strings and cables and check to see if they are correct. 

   The next thing I like to do is check to see if my cams are rotated and timed correctly. Most manufactures have written information on how to properly time and rotate your cams.  Check your owner’s manual for the proper set up.  Cam timing and rotation is a VERY important part of the tuning process. One important thing to look for is if your string is making contact with the cams all the way until it exits the cam.  You may be out of alignment if your cam is rotated forward causing a gap between the string and cam. 

  Next you should set your nock point about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch high and center tune your rest. If you are shooting a drop away rest, it may be best to set your nock point about 1/8” below center.  This will give you a good starting point. Remember, just because your bow is squared up at rest does not mean it will be at full draw.

Step 2: Tiller Tuning

   I like to tiller tune just to get the grip of the bow to fit properly in my hand. Tiller tuning will help you comfortably place your hand in the grip.  Repeating your grip placement is much easier with a properly tiller tuned bow.  See Bryan Helland’s article “become more personal with your tuning” for a better explanation.

   The easy explanation is if you are “healing” (more pressure on the bottom of your hand compared to the top) the bow you may want to take some poundage out of the bottom limb to rotate the grip up into the web of your hand more.  You do this by turning your bottom limb bolt ¼ turn at a time until the grip feels comfortable. Basically all you are doing is increasing the poundage of the upper limb in comparison to the lower limb, thus rotating the grip in your hand. Do just the opposite if you seem to have more pressure pushing into the web of your hand.  Remember, there should be equal pressure all the way across your hand.

Step 3: Creep Tuning

   Basically creep tuning sets the timing for you at full draw. Creep tuning is very quick and easy, but it is amazing what it can do for your scores.  It should be noted that 2 cam bows and hybrid cams can be creep tuned, single cam bows can not be creep tuned (proper rotation becomes very important for single cams). 

   Sight your bow in at 20 yards.  Next, place a line of masking tape horizontally on a piece of cardboard or target.  Pull real hard into the wall and shoot the first arrow into the tape.  Next, creep forward and shoot a soft shot on your second arrow. If both shots hit the tape your bow is in perfect time. If the “creep” shot hits high, tighten or shorten the cable that connects to the bottom cam.  If the “creep” shot hits low, tighten or shorten the cable that connects to the top cam.  Very small adjustment are all you need (usually 1/2 turn at a time is plenty). Remember to repeat this process several times and rule out any bad shots before you make any changes. Once you are able to hit the tape with both scenarios your bow will shoot better than ever!

Step 4: Paper Tune

   I used to think this was the best way to properly tune my bow.  Lately I have realized that just because an arrow tears a nice bullet hole does not make it hit the bullseye every time. It seems strange, but you can have arrows that fly well and not group well.  None the less, I usually like to paper tune just to get started.  I like to tune my arrows with a slight high and left tear (right handed release archer with a blade style launcher).  This tear allows the arrow to clear the rest and riser, and eliminates most contact problems.  With a drop away rest you should try to get a bullet hole (or somewhat close), since you are not worried about rest clearance. After I achieve this tear I move on to group tuning. To learn how to properly paper tune your arrows download Easton’s tuning guide at http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/.  This guide should help you identify any problem you come across while tuning. 

Step 5: Group Tune

  Basically group tuning helps get your arrows to hit properly, regardless of arrow flight.  Unlike paper tuning where your arrows could possibly fly straight but not score or hit the best.  What is more important, arrows that fly’s straight or arrows that score well?    Group tuning does take some time, you should be feeling and shooting your best when you do it.  Remember to rule out any bad shots.

   Start with a line of masking tape placed horizontally on a piece of cardboard or target.  Shoot several arrows at the tape and record your results. If you are hitting the tape every time you are lucky!  If not, you need to make very small adjustments to your knocking point (usually 1/32 of an inch) and shoot again. Keep making adjustments up and down until you are consistently hitting the tape. Recording the results is very important, this way you can return your knocking point to the position where you were getting the best results. I like to use a micro tune rest thus making my adjustment very easy. You can also use the reference marks on the rest to return the rest to the best position.

   After you have achieved satisfactory results on the horizontal line, turn the cardboard so that you have a vertical line and shoot several arrows and the line. Now you can begin to make small adjustment to your rest, both in and out.  Again, keep the adjustment small and record your results.  Once your arrows begin to hit the tape consistently you have the best “hitting” arrows possible…….regardless of flight!

   One important note, your arrows are the most important piece of equipment you have (including your bow).  Trying to tune with arrows that are not near perfectly matched or do not have the correct spine is almost impossible. The best bow in the world will not shoot good scores with bad arrows, but that piece of junk bow hanging in your garage can with perfect arrows!

   This is a simplified explanation of my tuning process, see Easton’s tuning guide for a better explanation.  Hopefully this will help you get the most out of your bow. Remember, only YOU can properly tune your bow. It may seem like a long and complicated process, but you can do it in a very short amount of time……and better scores will follow!